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How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

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How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby Daystate Admin » 17 Jan 2013, 10:27

How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud



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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby Daystate Admin » 26 Mar 2013, 16:46

The one thing i would add is on a spare bit of wood do some test holes that way you know that your drill is the correct size for the stud threads with out ruining your rifle stock
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby Kent_keith » 26 Feb 2014, 20:15

People, after drilling, use a reamer to take the edge off the hole otherwise you run the risk of splitting the wood as you fit the screw.
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby stryder5 » 26 Feb 2014, 20:28

Kent_keith wrote:People, after drilling, use a reamer to take the edge off the hole otherwise you run the risk of splitting the wood as you fit the screw.


What sort of reamer? Tapered?

I found the easiest way to avoid the splitting and to provide a flat surface for my white washer was to use an 11mm drill used in reverse.
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby Mantonflint » 26 Feb 2014, 23:25

Kent_keith wrote:People, after drilling, use a reamer to take the edge off the hole otherwise you run the risk of splitting the wood as you fit the screw.

It's what we up north call a countersink bit. ;)
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby stryder5 » 27 Feb 2014, 09:03

Ahhh :D
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby salop sniper » 27 Feb 2014, 10:36

Handy that this has come up as I will need to do my Ranger next week.

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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby Freddie » 31 Oct 2014, 01:21

A little candle wax on the stud will make it much easier to screw into the stock.
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby stryder5 » 31 Oct 2014, 09:24

I use high strength epoxy, lubricates as it's screwed in, sets and stops it comming free unexpectedly.
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Re: How to fit a rifle sling and QD stud

Postby 18 Wheeler » 31 Oct 2014, 23:58

stryder5 wrote:I use high strength epoxy, lubricates as it's screwed in, sets and stops it comming free unexpectedly.

The only problem is when the QD stud shears off leaving the epoxied shank in the stock. Don't ask me how I know! :o :oops:

Plenty of good advice above.

-Have a trial run on a piece of scrap wood, preferably something of similar hardness to the stock, although even ply or pine is better than nothing. This will give you a feel for the correct hole size with your specific studs. In the worst case new studs are much cheaper than repairing or replacing a stock!

-The greatest risk when fitting studs comes from too small a pilot hole, subsequent tightening of the stud can then split the stock. You should be able to screw them with no more leverage than the short end of an Allen key, the last 1/4 turn may need the longer shaft of the key to be placed through the stud's hole when its face binds to the stock. Any more friction indicates that the hole is probably too small IMO.

Here's my method which incorporates much of the above:

--REMOVE THE ACTION FROM THE STOCK--

1. Place some masking tape on the stock to help you mark the correct location and prevent the drill bit from slipping.
If you intend using the stud for a bipod then offer the bipod up to the stock in both the open and closed positions to check any clearance issues, this is more likely if the stock has a schnabel tip.

2. Lightly marking the starting point with an awl (or similar) will also help prevent any slips.

3. Drill the stock to the correct depth. Use masking tape on the drill bit as a depth stop, stud length +1mm.
I use a small (1.5 or 2mm) bit initially then open it up to the correct size once I've confirmed it is vertical in both planes.

4. Use a countersink bit to very slightly chamfer the hole's edge. No need to use a drill, just the c/s bit between your fingers gives greater control.

-Don't epoxy the stud into the stock. If it should break at a later date it will make tidy removal almost impossible.
[See above :? ]

5. I rub the threads on some candle wax. It helps stop the threads binding in particularly hard woods and may offer some protection against water ingress which could swell and split the wood.


I've done the above on many stocks over the years it has served me well. All the studs have remained secure and trouble free. HTH
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